Official Luthiers Forum!

First, if this belongs in the section on tools and jig tutorials, can it be moved?

I have a 4" belt sander/disk sander combo, and need to thickness my headstock and to thickness sand the veneers I have for the front and back of the headstock. Headstock is mahogany, the two veneers are ebony and cocobolo.
I searched the tools/jigs section without any luck, but would appreciate pictures and maybe even a how-to about making a jig to place by the belt sander and slide the headstock in and out. I figure if that can be done, I can use double sided tape on the veneers and a straight board to attach them to in order to get them thinner.
I appreciate any and all help - especially with lots of pics.
Thanks,
Bob

_________________
Bob
From the oldest town in Texas.

It can and has been done did by others including myself once upon a time which was a long time ago and as such just don't remember how any more. It worked, but I do remember it was a lot of hassle and so built me a thickness sander which was a hassle of a different flavour. But ya...it is possible.
Suggest you suck it up, save self the hassle and just purchase ready thicknessed plates.

Run Google and youtube for info and pics of thicknessing jigs with belt sandes.


thus spake Padma

blessings

_________________
.

Audiences and dispensations on Thursdays ~ by appointment only.


.

After making the basic unit with a floating support I sanded a board in it and attached it to the base for the actual sanding support surface so I knew it was co-planar with the belt.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

I free handed it... first I glue the headplate on, then carefully thin it down with a jointer, and then just pressed it against the belt... not the most elegant solution but it works.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com

I am with Tai. I get the top surface of the head true with planes, checking with a square for flatness and correct plane with the rest of the neck. Then I glue down the top plate (it is already thicknessed) I mark all the way around the three sides of the head stock to the thickness I need, then watching the lines I just sand it to the mark with the belt sander. I have mine up on a shelve were it is easy to see the lines. Then I check with a caliper at many places and do any final sanding with 120 grit held on a block of wood. Glue the back piece on and there you go.

But I have to say, Terence's method is way better.

_________________
Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

Terence, in the 2nd picture with the assembled parts that go against the long board that is angled, it looks like that assembly will rotate to keep it flush against the long board. Is that just something like sheet rock screws or wood screws or even bolt going thru the bottom piece of the assembly? That makes great sense.
Thanks for all suggestions. I've considered just putting the headstock on the belt and sanding down to a line marked all around. I'll mull all of this over and figure it out.
Much appreciated,
Bob

_________________
Bob
From the oldest town in Texas.

As I recall it's a 1/4" dowel Bob. You could also use a 1/4" metal dowel pin. One on each side. I took those pictures several years ago so I'll have to go look at it.

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

My jig.

Ake,

That is a nice jig. I like the idea of putting the guides above the belt. (for me it would be above) Very nice

_________________
Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust